Betul, Goa: A Journey Back in Time to a Simpler Goa
- Blandon Fernandes
- Jun 5
- 4 min read

Some locations are more than mere spots on a map; they serve as time capsules. They capture the essence of history, the gentle murmur of waves sharing ancient stories, and the nostalgia of an era when life felt more straightforward, relaxed, and meaningful. Betul, Goa, embodies this charm—a village where the river meets the sea, where fishermen repair their nets beneath the warm sun, and where the memories of carefree summers by the beach flood back with each salty gust of wind.
The Road to Betul, Goa: A Journey into Nostalgia
As you head towards Betul Beach, there's a sense of time stretching out. The streets are flanked by majestic coconut trees, gently swaying as if they’re greeting you to a destination that feels familiar, even if you’ve never set foot there before. The air is rich with the fragrance of the ocean, blended with the warm, inviting smell of local kitchens cooking up the day’s best seafood.
As a child, trips to villages like Betul, Goa, were a family tradition. Packed into an old Ambassador car, we would weave through winding lanes, singing along to old Konkani songs crackling on the radio. The excitement of spotting the first glimpse of the river, the thrill of running barefoot on untouched sands, and the taste of fresh mussels grilled by a smiling auntie at a tiny beach shack—these moments were the essence of childhood summers.
Betul Beach: Where Time Stands Still
Unlike the more famous beaches of Goa, Betul Beach feels untouched, unspoiled. The golden sands stretch lazily, kissed by gentle waves that have seen generations come and go. It’s not the kind of place where tourists lounge with cocktails; it’s the kind where grandfathers sit on old wooden boats, telling stories of storms they once braved at sea.

I remember sitting on this very shore years ago, watching my father and his friends wade into the water, casting their nets with effortless skill. The sky was painted in hues of orange and pink, and the rhythmic splash of the waves felt like the heartbeat of Goa itself. Today, as I stand here again, it’s as if nothing has changed—except maybe me.
Betul Fort: Whispers from the Past
Perched on a quiet hill, Betul Fort has seen centuries pass by. Built by the Portuguese in the 17th century, it was once a silent guardian of Goa’s southern waters. Now, it stands in quiet defiance against time, its walls covered in moss, its stones whispering stories of forgotten battles and lost lovers.

Walking through the ruins, I can almost hear the echoes of history. As a child, I imagined soldiers patrolling these walls, their torches flickering in the night. Today, the fort is empty, save for the occasional explorer looking for a slice of forgotten Goa. And yet, it still holds the same mystery, the same quiet charm that made me fall in love with it all those years ago.
The Lighthouse and the Keeper of Memories
Not far from the fort stands the Betul Lighthouse, its white tower standing tall against the sky. As kids, we would listen to stories of the lighthouse keeper—a man who lived alone, guiding lost ships to safety with nothing but a flickering light and an old transistor radio for company.

I remember visiting the lighthouse with my grandfather, his weathered hands holding mine as we climbed the winding stairs. "This is where the sea speaks," he had said, pointing to the vast expanse before us. Looking out today, I feel the same wonder, the same smallness against the endless ocean.
A Taste of the Past: Betul’s Soulful Flavors
The real soul of Betul, Goa, lies in its food—the kind that carries stories with every bite. Small beachside shacks still serve fish curry made the way our grandmothers did, with coconut, love, and secrets passed down through generations.
I sit at a familiar shack, ordering a plate of freshly grilled kingfish. The owner, an old woman with a warm smile, places a steaming dish before me. "You were here years ago, no?" she asks, recognition lighting up her eyes.
I nod, swallowing a lump in my throat. Yes, I was here years ago, with people I loved, with laughter in the air and the promise of endless summers.
Betul: A Place That Never Leaves You
As the sun begins to set, casting a golden glow over Betul Beach, I realize something: some places don’t just stay in your memory—they become a part of you.
Betul is not just a village. It is the feeling of sand between your toes, the scent of salt in the air, and the echoes of laughter carried by the wind. It is the Goa we knew, the Goa we miss, and the Goa we hope never changes.
So if you ever find yourself longing for a place that feels like home, for a sunset that brings back forgotten dreams, for a moment where time stands still—come to Betul, Goa. It will welcome you like an old friend, just as it always has.
Comments