Beyond the Beaches Lies Margao: The Goa We Grew Up In

You might know Margao from railway announcements and dusty bus signs. Maybe you’ve passed through on your way to Palolem or Benaulim. Maybe you only saw it through the window of a cab, just another busy Goan town on the way to somewhere else.

But let me tell you something, as someone who grew up here, who walked its lanes barefoot as a child, who still buys spices from the same aunty in the market, Margao isn’t a stopover. It’s the soul of South Goa.

And if you skip it, you’re skipping something essentially Goan.

Why You Should Visit Margao When You’re in Goa?

Because Goa isn’t just beaches and shacks and night markets.

It’s rhythm. Routine. Romance.

And Margao is where all of that comes together quietly, beautifully, and honestly.

This city won’t try to impress you. It won’t throw glitter in your face. But if you spend even half a day here, sauntering, tasting curried fish, listening to Konkani song from an old café radio, Margao will stay with you long after your holiday ends.

What Growing Up in Margao Feels Like

Mornings in Margao began with the sound of newspaper bundles hitting verandas, the aroma of patal bhaji wafting from tiny cafés, and the chime of chapel bells that somehow blended perfectly with bicycle bells.

I remember waiting with my grandfather outside Grace Church, buying peanuts wrapped in old math notebooks, and listening to stories about Portuguese times. Every building had a name. Every corner had a legend. That’s how Margao teaches you things, not through museums, but through ordinary people doing beautiful, ordinary things.

The Market is Our Living Room

If you really want to feel Margao, go to the market not for souvenirs, but for stories.

There, you’ll see vendors who’ve been in the same spot for decades, still calling out the names of fish with the same dramatic flair. You’ll hear Konkani, Marathi, English, and Portuguese mix like an old recipe. You’ll see neighbours exchanging gossip while picking the right bimbli, and boys on cycles delivering poi still warm from the bakery.

Our Houses Still Whisper

In the old neighbourhoods of Comba and Borda, the houses still carry the weight of time. They’re painted in muted ochres and blues, with balconies where old men still read the paper, and windows made of oyster shell that filter the light like prayer.

These aren’t just homes. They’re keepsakes.

If you pass one and the gate’s open, someone might still invite you in for a cup of black tea and a biscuit and a story about how their grandmother made bebinca only on Sundays.

Here, Food Isn’t a Trend. It’s a Tradition.

The ros omelette stalls open like clockwork every evening, the fish thalis at places like Longuinho’s haven’t changed in years, and that’s exactly why we love them. The mutton chops from Costa’s Bakery, the choris pão from the guy near the old bus stand, the homemade kulfi your neighbour sells in recycled bottles, they’re all part of the daily rhythm.

No influencers needed, just memory, spice, and soul.

What makes Margao different from Panjim or other Goan towns?

Where Panjim feels colonial and coastal, Margao feels lived-in and local.

Here, life isn’t arranged for postcards. It unfolds like a Goan afternoon: slow, warm, and full of layered stories. Margao is more introspective, more grounded, a city made not of landmarks, but of memories.

When is the best time to visit Margao?

• November to February: Pleasant weather, perfect for walking the streets and enjoying street food.

• May: The Feast of the Holy Spirit Church, one of the biggest local festivals.

• Monsoons (June–August): Lush green surroundings, ideal for heritage photography.

Can I experience local life in Margao?

Yes! Margao is not hidden behind resorts or curated experiences. You can:

• Join a heritage walking tour

• Eat with locals in hidden food joints

• Attend local church feasts

• Watch traditional Konkani theatre

• Shop at the everyday local market, not a tourist one

It’s as real as Goa gets.

Final Thoughts from a Local

If you only see Goa through its beaches, you’ll leave with photos. But if you see Goa through Margao, you’ll leave with feelings.

Margao is my home. And in many ways, it’s the heart of a Goa that still believes in stories, spices, and slowness.

So next time you plan a trip here, don’t just book the beach. Stay in Margao for a day—or even just an afternoon—and see where Goa truly lives.

Quick Summary

Q: Why is Margao worth visiting?

A: It’s the cultural heart of South Goa, known for authentic Goan food, vibrant markets, heritage homes, and traditional theatre.

Q: What is special about Margao?

A: Margao offers a slice of everyday Goan life with its heritage streets, food traditions, and timeless charm.

Q: Is Margao tourist-friendly?

A: Yes. While not touristy, it’s warm, walkable, and welcoming, with markets, churches, and eateries accessible to all.

Q: What are the top attractions in Margao?

A: Holy Spirit Church, Margao Market, Monte Hill, Ravindra Bhavan, and Comba’s old houses.