There is a version of North Goa that only exists for four months of the year, and almost nobody plans a trip around it on purpose. It starts sometime in June, when the sky changes colour first and the sea follows a few days later. By July, the hills behind Assagao and Siolim have gone from brown to a green so deep it looks unreal in photos. The beach shacks that define North Goa the rest of the year are shuttered and stacked.